In the courts favor were diamonds, platinum, pearls and a style quite different from the heaviness of the preceding eras.While platinum was desired, it was proclaimed a "strategic metal" during WWI and its use in jewelry was diminished.Following Alberts death in 1861, she continued to wear jewelry.Known as mourning jewelry, Queen Victoria wore it in tribute to her deceased husband.A formula for 18 kt white gold was introduced by David Belais as "18k Belais." Both pot metal and sterling were plated with rhodium to create the look of platinum. Theda Bara plays Cleopatra in a silent film version, and many ladies decided the Egyptian slave look was for them.Bohemia, Moravia and Slovakia became the Republic of Czechoslovakia.
Choker length and slightly longer strands of pearls and a riot of beads and crystals led the parade. Milady chose to spend a bit more time in the out of doors (i.e. She no longer hid under a parasol nor chose to be shy about applying a demure powder puff to her nose in public. A coincidental wave alongside Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau took elegant stylization to the female form, with graceful, flowing, curvaceous, nature redone.
The pieces were black and made of various types of materials: gutta percha, vulcanite, bog oak, ebonite and black glass.
Jewelry took the form of chatelaines, hair ornaments, lockets, pierced earrings, watch chains with fobs and seals, cameos, book chain style necklaces, hatpins, lavalieres, lace and lingerie pins, bangles, cufflinks and stud buttons.
There were many motifs characteristic of this time: flowers, snakes, crescents, lizards, birds, Celtic designs, Japanese designs, horseshoes and acrostics. A Victorian filigree diamond ring today is a much sought after piece.
The first letter of each stone spelled a word when put together. There was a wide variety of materials used in the jewelry: turquoise, coral, pearls, agate, tortoiseshell, cut steel, sterling, gold and various grades of gold, jet, French jet (black glass), lava, onyx and paste, low carat gold markings (9 carat) and gun metal "blackened steel." Jewelry had a "stamped," machine made look and feel.
The stones came from Europe in the firs place, therefore being at war stopped the importation of the stones altogether.